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The SHIRTMAKING WORKBOOK / Pattern, Design, and Construction Resources

So Much Honored to be listed in this Excellent book!

David Page Coffin delivered to us a Compendium dedicated to all sewers.

It is  inspiring to beginners and advanced sewers. Inside you will find an amazing collection of ideas and helpful guides.The Shirtmaking Workbook includes fabulous Online Content, many extensive lists and links to further reading and references. Thanks to David Page Coffin, your next sewing project will be Masterful!

                                                                                               With Great Gratitude,

Anna G. – Fashion designer

Для меня огромная честь быть одним из дизайнеров о которых идет речь в этой замечательной книге. Автор подарил настоящий клад идей для всех желающих мастерски кроить и шить рубашки.

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Mod. Domenico – Men’s Shirt – Camicia Uomo – Мужская рубашка

Atelier Anna G.

Mod. Domenico – Fashion Design Sketch – Made to Measure

 

 

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New Shirt is ready – La nuova camicia è pronta – Новая рубашка готова

Packaging Anna G.

Packaging Anna G.

White tunic-shirt – a holiday essential piece / Tunica-camicia bianca – il capo di abbigliamento essenziale per vacanze estive / Белая туника-рубашка – неотъемлемая часть гардероба для летнего отдыха

Fashion Design Sketch by Anna G.

Mod. “Santorini” – white cotton-linen tunic-shirt

Exclusive made-to-measure long-line tunic-shirt handcrafted from light weight cotton-linen blend with natural turquoise buttons. A holiday essential that is perfect either teamed with pants or with shorts.

        Preziosa tunica-camicia su misura in misto lino con bottoni in turchese, molto leggera e fresca. Ideale in contesti vacanzieri abbinata a pantaloni oppure shorts.

Изысканная, легкая и свежая туника-рубашка (состав ткани: хлопок и лён), созданная вручную по индивидуальным меркам. Идеально подходит для летнего отдыха в сочетании с брюками или шортами.

Hand-sewn  Made-to-Measure tunic-short by Anna G.

– Mod. “Santorini” featuring a slightly open button-down italian collar, placketless clean and chic slit-front opening, natural turquoise buttons with fleur-de-lis hand stitching.                     – Mod. “Santorini” presenta colletto leggermente aperto in stile button-down, abbottonatura frontale pulita e chic, bottoni in turchese naturale cuciti a mano con punto fleur-de-lis.             – Мод. “Санторини” с элегантным цельнокроенным воротником-планкой в стиле button-down, пуговицами из натуральной бирюзы, пришитыми вручную в технике fleur-de-lis.

The chic escape: Santorini island, Greece.

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– Design details: pin tucks, entredeux embroidery, turned up cuffs with stays, hand-sewn finishes.                                                                                                                                                       – Dettagli di stile: nervature, ricami entredeux, polsini con risvolti e stecche, rifiniture a mano.                                                                                                                                                          – Авторские детали: декоративные швы, вышивка entredeux, отворачивающиеся манжеты со стойками, ручная отделка.

 

Turquoise colour inspiration.

 

Hand-sewn Made-to-Measure tunic-shirt by Anna G.

– The style is designed with split sides for a fluid feel. The hem is hand finished and decorated with entredeux embroidery and hand-made client’s initials.                                    – L’orlo leggermente arrotondato con spacchetti laterali. Rifiniture a mano, con ricamo entredeux ed iniziali personalizzabili.                                                                                               – Слегка закругленный подол с боковыми разрезами. Ручная отделка, вышивка entredeux и личные инициалы по заказу клиента.

See Styling Inspiration

– Anna G., Designer

The ARTful Shirt Design

Often the original detail is enough to create the Designer’s garment.

I found very interesting and inspiring different types of fabric manipulation.

The possibilities for three-dimensional creation are endless.

Starting from the simplest piece of cloth and a threaded needle – surprising techniques will materialized.

The SEWing become ART.

Spesso un dettaglio originale è sufficiente per creare un capo di Design.

Trovo molto interessante provare diversi tipi di manipolazione del tessuto.

Le possibilità per la creazione tridimensionale sono infinite.

Partendo da un semplice pezzo di stoffa e un ago infilato è possibile realizzare tecniche sorprendenti.

Il CUCITO diventa ARTE.

Для Дизайнерского вдохновения достаточно одной оригинальной детали.

Меня увлекают безграничные возможности метода трёхмерной манипуляции ткани.

С помощью простых обрезков, иглы и нити, возможны удивительные эксперименты.

ШИТЬЁ становится ИСКУССТВОМ.

The Designer's Sketch

Fashion Design Sketch by Anna G.

This classic model is decorated with “Pressed Quilting” technique.

The “Quilting” is stitching that fastens some layers of fabric – into design form.

The “Pressed Quilting” is the variation of “Quilting“. It is a pattern, created from the  folded stripes of cloth that appears to weave underneath itself.

Questo classico modello camicia è decorato con la tecnica “Pressed Quilting“.

Quilting“: una serie di cuciture che fissa alcuni strati di tessuto fra di loro, creando allo steso tempo una forma di Design.

 “Pressed Quilting” (variante del “Quilting“): dove le strisce piegate si sovrappongono dando forma ad un intreccio.

Эта классическая модель рубашки украшена методом “Pressed Quilting“.

“рубашки”подразумевает апликацию из нескольких слоёв ткани, соединённых между собой с помощью ручных или машинных швов.

Pressed Quilting” является вариантом, созданным из сложенных полос ткани с эффектом переплетения.

Image from "The art of manipulating Fabric" by Colette Wolff

Image source: “The art of manipulating Fabric” by Colette Wolff

The “Argento” luxury 2-ply soft and silky cotton from Canclini in pretty pastels, would be the perfect choice for this particular Design.

Il tessuto che mi sento di consigliare in questo caso è il morbido e setoso Articolo “Argento” di Canclini. Le tonalità pastello sono deliziose.

Рекомендуемая ткань: изысканный и шелковистый хлопок “Argento” от Canclini в нежных пастельных тонах.

"Argento" extra fine fabric.

Articolo “Argento” is the extra fine cotton.

– Anna G., Designer

 

 

 

 

 

Looking your Sartorial Best at a Cool Wedding

Pleated Bib-Front Dress Shirt

Hand Made-to-Measure Pleated Bib-Front Dress Shirt.                                                                                   Il figurino dell’ elegante camicia su misura.                                                                                                    Эскиз элегантной рубашки по индивидуальным меркам.

While the attention during the Big Day usually focused on the Bride and the Groom, also the Guests expected to make an effort without stealing the spotlight.

Dress codes and rules are countless, but on thing is sure: you can not go wrong with a well-cut hand made-to-measure shirt.

For a contemporary take on this youthful and romantic occasion, try separates rather than a full suit. A pastel coloured or white shirt will provide a sophistication sartorial frame for whatever tie you would like to wear.

The top quality fine cotton fabric will guarantee comfort throughout the busiest of the days.

Don’t forget, your shirt has to be impeccably ironed (as always).

Come mostrare il Vostro Aspetto Sartoriale Migliore ad un Matrimonio di Stile

Non è difficile immaginare che l’attenzione durante il “Grande Giorno”, solitamente incentrata sugli sposi, comporti (senza rubare la luce dei riflettori) un po’ di sforzo anche da parte degli ospiti.

I codici d’abbigliamento e le regole sono numerosi, ma una cosa è certa: non si sbaglia mai con una bella camicia cucita a mano e su misura.

Per dare un tocco contemporaneo a questa occasione gioiosa e romantica potreste  indossare un abito “spezzato”. La camicia bianca o pastello fornirà un raffinato sfondo sartoriale per qualsiasi cravatta.

Il cotone pregiato di altissima qualità garantirà una sensazione piacevole e  comodità durante tutta la giornata.

Non dimenticare, per favore, che la camicia deve essere stirata in modo impeccabile (come sempre d’altronde).

Как выглядеть Наилучшим образом на Модной Свадьбе 

Во время свадьбы, как правило, внимание сосредоточенно на женихе и невесте. Однако, гости также должны постараться выглядеть элегантно (не затмевая собой молодоженов).

Существует бесчисленное множество правил, но одно остается неизменным: рубашка по индивидуальным меркам, сшитая вручную, является беспроигрышным вариантом.

Для современного подхода к этому счастливому и романтическому событию, вместо однотонного, попробуйте костюм в комбинированном цвете (например: темно-синий пиджак и серые брюки). Голубая, кремовая или белая сорочка, послужит изысканным фоном для любого галстука.

Высококачественная хлопчатобумажная ткань подарит ощущение комфорта в течение всего дня.

И не забывайте, пожалуйста, что ваша рубашка должна быть безупречно отглажена (как и всегда).

                  – Anna G., Designer

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Stitch by Stitch…

Each Shirt is hand-finished, stitch by stitch, for clean and sophisticated look and to ensure the wearer more ease and softness.

Hand stitching has many Virtues: it’s smooth, discreet and durable over time.

Another important thing is the control and freedom you have to shape the garment during the sewing. It allows to sew inconspicuously and precisely in narrow sections from the right side, which is impossible on a sewing machine.

If the hand stitches need to be removed, they will not mark the fabric, as the machine stitching would do.

It’s true, that the hand sewing require time and patience, but it’s extremely rewarding by pleasure to wear the beautifully craft garments for many years forward.

– Anna G., Designer

The hand-made Shirt and some of the tools and supplies, used for sewing and pressing

The hand-made Shirt and some of the tools and supplies, used for sewing and pressing

 

 

Mod. Davide Shirt: elegantly comfortable

 

Mod. Davide

 

The inspiration for this Model came from David Page Coffin’s “Shirtmaking”, which is  my favorite book about the topic .

I find very interesting the elbow patches cut in one with the sleeve placket, highlighted by contrasting fabric.

The hem is faced and featuring the side splits.

Another interesting detail is the double “button down” collar, made from two contrasting layers of fabric.

For this Model I would suggest the “Nevada” 100 % cotton in white for the Shirt’s body and the light blue for the details.

The Canclini’s “Nevada” cotton is the 2-ply fabric made of long-staple yarns 90/2, Egyptian cotton only, that are able to keep brilliance, soft and silky hand touch during their life.

Also many other colours are available as much as the choice of hand-embroidered client’s monogram.

If you’d like to order this beautiful hand-made MTM (made-to-measure) Shirt, you are welcome to contact us via mail: annagfashion@gmail.com

Anna G., Designer

Ordering a Custom Shirt

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Do not worry, if you are new to Custom Shirt Making!

Let me take you to the imaginary experience, to order your first Made-to-Measure Custom Shirt.

  1. To fix the appointment you should contact the Designer (Shirt Maker) by mail or phone.
  2. The Designer will provide expert fashion advice on selecting the Style and Fabric appropriate for your lifestyle and figure.You can choose from wide range of cloth and colours. Frequently the Shirt is Designed for a particular Client.
  3. Multiple body-measures will be taken. It necessary a lot of labor hours to translate those measurements to paper pattern. The Custom Shirt will proportioned for  your body in many subtle ways: the posture and asymmetry are noted: the sleeve length, the collar or shoulder seam may be slightly narrower on one side. For a full figure the most flattering line will be found. Even the Design will be scaled to balance the exact pattern. For complex figure types or Styles, the Muslin sample will be cutted, draped and fitted. It takes years of practice to learn wich adjustments will be most flattering to the individual client.
  4. About a week after, you will have your first Fitting. The Shirt Maker will check the Fit and Design, will mark the corrections. If the Design is very complex, there may be additional Fitting.
  5. Your chosen cloth will be masterfully cutted. During the Manufacturing Process, great part of sewing is done by hand. The fabric is shaped and manipulated, each seam is carefully pressed, until the Shirt is ready. The Sartorial Shirt may look effortless, but it takes hours, patience and effort to produce that effortless look.
  6. Usually most Shirts are finished in free weeks after the fitting.

Finally each Shirt is individually pressed to perfection, wrapped in paper and delivered to you!

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It’s all in the Detail.

You may ask: “What is the difference between the Shirts?”

Well … There so many  different aspects that contribute to superior quality.

Let’s start the closer inspection to the anatomy of the artisan’s Shirt.